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Whenever compiling a list of London’s top eateries, one might expect renowned award-winning names. However, nestled prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a outlying part of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

The compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. This accolade has made the owners totally shocked.

“I’m completely surprised,” says a proprietor, alluding to his family’s dedication that resulted in their modest place achieving such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its former character. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the fare, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is set to have meaning outside its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this gastronomic triumph.